Chapter 2 – Cartagena to Vigo.
Friday 18th April.
We have now spent 24 hours holed up in Cartagena – a delightful and active port at the eastern end of the Alboran Sea. We came in yesterday morning after a night punching an increasingly steep and heavy swell from the west which reduced progress to a mere 3 knots. Since then the barometer here in the chart house has continued to plummet and currently shows 993mB, while outside the harbour is whipped into sheets of spray by the fierce west wind.
The decision to stop for a breather was welcomed by everyone.
By Thursday we had experienced a complete spectrum of weather. On Sunday we had a sunny warm morning for man overboard drills (Andy was the only one to get it first time round), and we then set all working canvas and reached for the first 25 miles of our course through the Golf du Lyon in fairly gentle conditions. This seemed like the essence of gaff sailing and got us off to an excellent start.
However the evil reputation of the gulf was not so easily placated, and by midnight of our first night on passage the seas and wind were building though the wind was still fair. At about midnight the wind quickly increased to about force 7 causing a tumbling, steep and extremely uncomfortable sea. This was augmented shortly after by a squall which caught the mains’l aback before we could get a reef in it, and the preventer block broke under the strain. Typically, we had thought we had replaced all the vital pieces of gear and this was one of a very few that got overlooked. Order was restored on deck but not before Martin had had to go aloft to sort out the throat halyard. This was both dangerous and highly courageous and as the alternative was that the main would probably have ripped, we were extremely grateful to him.
The night continued very boisterous, and at this early stage in the voyage we all later admitted to feeling some misgivings. Most people were either seasick or at least extremely queasy. Tectona never faltered and showed a mastery of the conditions which we felt was a great tribute to her designer and builders. As anticipated after 4 years in the heat, she was making a bit of water but the pumps were coping with this and there was no undue cause for concern.
After a brilliant clear morning, our second day at sea gradually brought calmer conditions until by nightfall we were motoring with only steadying sail. We had finally escaped the clutches of the dreaded Golf du Lyon.
The following 2 days brought a much more settled feel to the ship, and as watch followed watch we got into the swing of life on board without any anxious moments. We realised just how lucky we are to have Andy on board as cook (he takes no watches but is one of the first to volunteer for work on deck). A variety of solid old-fashioned hot food makes a huge difference both to people’s stomachs and to the demands of wakefulness and muscular strength we were having to supply – mostly fairly unaccustomed.
On the final morning of this leg, the change in the weather had been expected but came earlier and in a more sinister way. We started to be met by a steep head-sea and the options of beating into it for several days were unappealing. Catagena was only a few miles to the north and Martin’s decision to make for the port was greeted with relief and the feeling that we will all perform better after a break at this point. Of course it is turning into a longer break than hoped, with a slow moving depression across the area, but the few days has given us a chance to make and mend in every sense of the phrase.
Tuesday 22nd April.
The forecast was good as we left the quay on Tuesday morning, warping the boat round in the light airs of morning. Our objective was Portimao in the Arlgave, some 350M distant, and once clear of the harbour, we set all plain sail and once again began the round of sailing / motorsailing / motoring we seems to characterise all of the passages I have ever made.
Wednesday
Light head winds through the Alboran Sea. Motoring with the main up to steady her. I’m relieved that Tectona’s Baudouin V6 diesel is turning out to be reliable. It was something of an unknown quantity, but it is running sweetly with no smoke and little oil consumption. We are motoring whenever the speed falls below about 5 knots, in order to keep up to schedule. The 7L per hour consumption is costing a lot, but it is worth it for everyone’s comfort and to avoid any further re-arrangements.
Thursday.
0630 – On my watch, Gibraltar comes out of the dawn mist to starboard. This is the first time I have seen Gib in the flesh, and I am aware that the last member of my family to experience this was my dad in 1942 when he was returning from some very dangerous naval operations in Sicily.
Friday
Choppy conditions and a moderate sail “round the corner”. Portimao reached at 1600. Handed sail in harbour entrannce and lower RIB. Soon found harbour was extremely windy, needing 900 rpm to keep her stationary stern-to-weather. Barbara Emily & Jim ribbed ashore by Dave. A wet ride back fro Ed and Colin who ere welcomed on board as we reclaimed the dinghy and hoisted the reefed main in the entrance. Quieter conditions at sea but still F5-6. Ed & Colin’s gear soaked but happy to be on board and soon joining in wholeheartedly.
Saturday.
Motor sailing up towards Lisbon. Watch succeeds watch with an agreeable regularity. Good food, good company and good humour.
Sunday.
My 0400 watch should have been quiet after the previous watch had come through the shipping lanes, but one singleton and two ?pair trawlers caused over 2 hrs of dodging around in the dark! Radar is a great asset in this.
Later in the day, Lisbon comes abeam. Choppy head-sea and N3-4. Motoring into it.
Weather discussions. Now getting BBC4 forecast (Fitzroy). Giving NW 3-4 (now) backing W 5-7. Decided to make for Vigo as an excellent port with the right facilities until the fronts have gone through. c70M so 14 hrs at 5 kn; ETA 1030 tomorrow.
Monday 28th April.
1100 All on deck to hand the mainsail and forestays’l. We then motor alongside Vigo’s Bouzas marina fuel pontoon, before moving to a berth where we can stay for a day or so. Cost of fuel – I cannot bring myself to type it…
R is at the helm for these manoeuvres, closely guided by skipper Martin. Tectona has interesting characteristics under power – more practice needed!